Batik Visuals Continued

Here’s my progress on the two batik visuals.

Its a little darker than I wanted..I accidently put it into the black dye bath rather than the darn green.

You can see it’s very crackled, I kept the wax solution to mostly parafin (candle) wax to achieve this.

I’ve started a new version, with a looser design and more beeswax at the beginning so the background will have less crackle.

The yellow, is actually a high concentration of beeswax(it will be white when ironed)

The pale pink is the first dye and the darkest colour is the second wax.

I wanted to show how outline is achieved. You can see I left a gap around the edges..Batik is like drawing in reverse, as the darkest colours go on last, thus the outline is the last to be dyed.

This is the finished swallow piece.

Again I used very little beeswax but after the first two dips..this means, the lighter colours white, yellow, light pink, were preserved, but the colours used after bled.

I wanted to highlight the potential of batik techniques, and show how different it is from painting. If a medium is explored to its possibilities, then how does it differ? Those that just paint on and wax successive layers, are not illustrating their understanding of the medium.

I am doing a second looser design of this piece too, its always advisable to work two pieces simultaneously.  I will alter the techniques used to see which I prefer.

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Batik Handout

Click on …      batik handout  .. to download a handout for help planning your Batik.

…here’s some of the important stuff..

some colour combinations using purely the dipping method

White – yellow – orange – red/orange – brown or purple – black

White – light blue – dark blue – purple/brown – black

White – peach- pink – grey – black

White – yellow – green – turquoise – purple/black

Some techniques

Crackling – cracking wax so colours bleed into the cracks

Permanent dyes – when applied on dry fabric, do not run

Half dips – dipping parts of fabric into different colours to achieve more colour variations

 (a simple and obvious half dip)

the fabric on the left is dipped in one colour.

the fabric on the right was dipped in this colour also but when removed was partly dipped in yellow(before waxing)

the colours blend and bled and is more typical for batik to “half dip” in this manner

 

Tie Dye – using elastic/string  to create a star burst pattern

NEW NOTICE BOARDS – ALL UNDER 15euro

Hello everyone, I made lots of quirky pinboards or notice boards for an upcomming maket but got doubled booked so decided to sell through here and my facebook page.

All are priced very reasonable, between 12.50 and 15euro (plus p&p)

all are handmade and no two are the same.

Please feel free to share or contact me.

26cm diameter wooden hoop with hand printed fabric.

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.193855457389755.38890.162767940498507&type=1

A3 size pin/notice board with handprinted fabric

26cm batik and wood

A2 size pinboard

vintage rabbit illustration fabric with bunny ribbon and bunting

suit nursery

I also teach classes on how to make these products, so any queries please contact me through comments or facebook

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Needle-Felting-Art/162767940498507

BATIK PINBOARD

I’ll be adding to this soon, but here’s the HOW TO on the first one

TO MAKE THIS 

YOU WILL NEED..

wax pot (insert)
 
(or double boil like chocolate but these pots will only be usefull for wax and EXTREME CAUTION is required)

hog hair (wax) and acrylic brushes (dye)

dyes (see how to make…https://ewesir.wordpress.com/tag/dye/ )

lots of newspaper / newsprint

iron

and all the materials for making a notice board in previous post https://ewesir.wordpress.com/2012/02/27/notice-board-easy-peesie/

ONE

TRACE IMAGE..you can see the drawing underneath in this image

CONSIDER WHERE YOUR LINES WOULD BE SO THEY CROSS OVER WHERE YOU WANT THEM

TWO

WAX EVERYTHING YOU WANT TO KEEP THE COLOUR OF THE FABRIC

CRACK THE WAX IF YOU WANT TO LEAVE DYE INTO THE CRACKS

THREE


I PAINTED IN THE DYE AS THERE IS SO LITTLE AREA TO BE DYED.

I BLED DIFFERENT DYES INTO THE PIECE.

I HAD USED NON-PERMANENT MARKER FOR THE OUTLINE WHICH BLED ALSO.

FOR THE CRACKS..I PAINTED THE DYE OVER THEM AND SCRUBBED INTO THEM WITH MY BRUSH

FOUR

sandwich the finished piece between newspaper

iron out until all the wax is gone..

keep changing the newspaper and use enough to protect your iron and board,

if the iron starts smoking..it’s because wax has transfered to the plate of the iron or it’s setting is releasing water.

FINALLY

staple all together as in earlier post.

PLACE RIBBON WHERE TELEPHONE WIRE WOULD BE.

Alternate Versions

excuse any bits and pieces sticking out..must add backing and secure tomorrow..

close up

“Lucy Homemaker”

8in embroidery round hoop

8inch embroidery hoop

“Converse”

“Blue Magpies”

6inch plastic embroidery hoop

FOUND A FANTASTIC TUTORIAL ON HOW TO MAKE THESE HOOPS SO HERE IS THE LINK

http://sunshineandcarousels.blogspot.com/2011/08/embroidery-hoop-pinboard-tutorial.html

It’s Raining Molly

Started new piece today while waiting for wool to soak/dye.

It’s based on a dream and I’m partial to it.

Heres the starting points, you can see slight adjustments made to be more suitable for the felt process

The colours here are very different than the outcome.  I have learnt to apply darker colours before the lighter (of the face) to stop stray strands being worked into unwanted areas. Also using high intensity colours under areas leads to more expressive and vartied results.

I love doing the hair this way, it is only secured at the roots, like in real life, so I can tease it into place, and it flows more naturally.

When the piece is completed, I will add a little more.

The background looks white, but is actually very sparsely spread dyed blue, you can see it in the next pic, its part of the blue I’m dying for a previous project, but I took a sample out earlier to have a few tone variations and couldn’t resist using it.

Getting better at photographing these more accurate to the actual colours used, but in no way does it represent the texture and softness of the pieces, so I can only hope that the mood of the piece in some way comes across.

Face to face

I’ve been looking at the different ways I have been rendering the faces through these projects so I thought I’d write a small post on them.

The fibres used for the faces are all merino wool tops, it needs that delicacy and shine.

I had to dye some fleshy colours…outlined in previous post

https://ewesir.wordpress.com/tag/dye/

Whatever “look” ypou are going for heres a few things to consider…

1, Do the darker colours first, the cheeks, shadows and hair near the face first.

This will stop the darker fibres overlaying on the face, as you can see what happened here….

the legs are a good example of the different colours I used for skin tone.

2. Layering is the key, felt fine layers of lighter shades to build up face

It took alot of layering due to the way I started.

 

3. Tight needle felting. make sure you use the needle alot.

here i left part of the hair unfelted as a contrast to the face and as a more natural representation of hair!

Hope its helpful…maybe I might consider taking my own advice now!!

Getting there Sabina!

Here you can see the dyed fibres i made for the skin colour. i really like the effect of it layered over the yellow on the tights. The outline of the face looks a bit stark at the moment but when the full outline is completed, it will be evenly built up throughout the piece.

I like the colours of the leaves, and had to apply all the techniques I know. Layering colours, Applying the fibres in a directional manner, pulling very thin strands with a needle to place it.

Lots more to do, and surprisingly its simple things to draw that are the most difficult to render….”short hand” doesn’t seem to apply in this discipline.

Dying Wool & Fibres.

So for my needle felting project I needed to create a fleshy colour, that would suit.

I use DEKA brand dyes, but dylon cold dyes are just as good.

When making a dye bath, I make sure i add a little more salt than the packet requires, a few tablespoons (4-6 for a 2 litre bath) of vinegar.

USE VINEGAR FOR FIBRES OR WOOL NOT BATIK!!!

Even though I wanted a hint of yellow in my bath, I used the rose colour to see how it would take to my wool and fibres.

You can see that the wool and fibres reacted very differently to the dye, which is why I didn’t add any yellow to the rose colour, I wanted to see how it would react initially. I also used some merino fibres(still soaking) which turned out another shade again.

Heres some precolour fibres, which after only a few minutes emmersed has altered shade from its original yellow.

Don’t waste a dye bath, save some in a sealed jar for future use (label clearly)

dyes some wool, tights etc…great for rag weaving and other projects.

STEP BY STEP

  • make bath according to packet instructions.
  • use a container with a lid (easier to store if needs to soak overnight)
  • put fibres into a pair of tights(easier to drain, and for fibres, protects it from breaking apart)
  • wait until the bath cools , fibres tend to felt together otherwise.
  • extract wool/fibres at different times to get a range of shades.
  • add some more dye to get a range of complimentary shades.
If your are using wool straight from a sheep, make sure u wash in anti- bacterial liquid to kill fleas and ticks! (use tights again)
Give it a good brush too between two wire brushes to get rid of grit etc.
Any queries, please leave a comments and I’ll get back to you.